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Individuality
and terroir, microclimates and eccentricity, talent and experimentation
are at the heart of their continuing success in an increasingly
competitive wine world.
Indeed, far
more medals are awarded collectively to the area's boutique wineries
than its larger concerns. Perhaps this is because even in this age
of high technology and on-site laboratories, great winemaking is
still based on a deep affinity with the vineyard, trial and error
in the winery and an intimate, hands-on approach to the process
of vinification.
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Often
this is easier to achieve when you don't have 500 hectares
of vines to tend, and a winery that looks like a small industrial
area! These take a small army of staff, and even though it
means the winery has made it into the big league, it can also
signal the end of an intimacy which established a world-beating
reputation in the first place.
Cognisant
of this 'loss of soul', many Margaret River wineries have
purposefully remained smallish, concentrating on quality over
quantity.
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Boutique
winery Beckett's Flat
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To prove our
point, we set about the task of hunting down a dozen delightful
wines from six boutique Margaret River wineries. Read about them
inside, then order a case. We think you'll be pleasantly surprised.
- Ron Macfarlan
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