A fascinating tasting of sub-regional Margaret River Cabernet Sauvignon was conducted by the local wineries recently. And what a revelation it was!

The unprecedented event, organised by Vanya Cullen (Cullen Wines) and Keith Mugford (moss Wood), saw over 70 1999 Cabernet barrel samples lined up at the Cowaramup Hall for tasting.

The object of the exercise was the determine differences in style, if any, between the subpoena-regional wines from across the Cape. The sub-regions were: Yallingup, Carbanup, Willyabrup, Treeton, Wallcliffe and Karridale.

"The tasting was a great success," said Vanya. "There has been a consensus for some time that, due to prevailing conditions, Margaret River's sub-regions tend to produce different styles of wine. "I think there was an acknowledgement among those tasting that there were some noticeable differences between the regions," she said.

Local vignerons were eager to participate in the tasting, and turned up in good numbers to sample the wines from an exceptional vintage.

Most agreed that there were definite variations in style between the proposed sub-regions. A notable variance in fruit intensity and character seemed to be the most common observations.

However definite similarities were detected in many wines emanating from the same regions. For example, wines sourced in the Willyabrup region differed from those coming from the Wallcliffe area.

Margaret River wine expert Dr John Gladstones stated that, in spite of varying soils and winemaking techniques, climate and topography remained very important factors in influencing styles.

"Significant differences can be expected over the area's 90km north-south length," said Dr Gladstones. "Added to latitude as such,, the northern segment faces north across Geographe Bay and is the most exposed to warm and dry north-east winds in summer.

"By contrast, the southern part is dominated throughout summer by very consistent south-east trade winds from the Southern Ocean. These are cooler and more humid, and bring some coastal cloud.

"Central parts of the region are subject to both influences. The resulting north-south climatic gradient is not dramatic as measured by conventional mean temperatures, but is real in viticultural terms," he said.

Those attending agreed that the sub-regional tasting was highly beneficial in gaining a better understanding of both our wines and the region.

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