Voyager Estate's award-winning winemaker Stuart Pym is a fellow who's own efforts speak volumes for his understanding of what constitutes a fine Margaret River wine.

"I must say I'm more than a bit partial to the Cullen '96 Chardonnay," he said. "It is a beautifully structured wine and an excellent example of top level Margaret River chardonnay."

The Cullen Chardonnay has long been an exemplary wine which seems to improve with each passing vintage. It has a wonderfully tight structure featuring masses of concentrated fruit. Fermented in new oak and left to linger on lees, the soft butterscotch and melon characters sit with consummate elegance on the palate. Like all the premium Cullen styles, a few years in the cellar will only enhance the thrill of this luscious wine.

Very much a Cullen fan, Stuart also recommends the 1995 Cullen Cabernet Merlot, arguably Australia's finest example of the blend. "It is an extraordinary fruit driven wine and should just keep improving for anything up to 20 years," he said.

The bouquet is drenched in blackcurrant while the palate is a medley of rich, well-balanced fruit integrated with soft oak nuances. The sweet fruit on the palate melts into an almost imperceptibly fine finish. Another ripper from Vanya Cullen.

Tip: We recently tried a barrel sample of the '96 Cullen Cabernet Merlot. Though a mere stripling, this is shaping up to be as good the 1995 - and that' s saying something. Order now, it goes like hot cakes!