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At
this relatively early stage in the evolution of the Margaret River
Wine Region, the best Chardonnay seems to emerge from two micro-climates
within the appellation. These are Willyabrup and the prized white
wine country to the immediate south of the township.
The latter is home to the likes of Leeuwin Estate, Devil's
Lair, Cape Mentelle, Chateau Xanadu, Redgate and Voyager Estate.
It is the Chardonnay from the last of these that Devil's
Lair winemaker Janice McDonald says is her favourite Margaret River
Wine. The fact that Janice is the better half of Voyager winemaker
Stuart Pym does not come into the equation, she tells us.
"It really is my favourite wine," she said. "I
would like to make Chardonnay like that myself. The Chardonnay from
this southern area is often finer and more elegant than other parts
of the cape."
"I think the 1998 Voyager is a well crafted wine that epitomises
the best qualities of the Margaret River style in the variety."
We would
have to agree with Janice's appraisal. It is a tremendous wine.
The Voyager is annually rated in the top five Chardonnays from the
region and has perhaps the highest quality consistency year-in-year-out
as any of the area's labels.
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