The introduction
of the popular semillon/sauvignon blanc blend Secession
was an attempt to break away from the style of the regional classic
dry whites. It worked. Unlike many blends of these varieties,
Secession generally improves with short term bottle age. A crisp
and flavoursome wine with soft acidity, it features the tell-tale
grassy and herbal characters of a good Margaret River white, although
can also conjure up Bordeaux when left to age a few years.
Meanwhile,
the early 90s saw dramatic improvement in the red wines under
Muggli's careful management. The Cabernet
Sauvignon is consistently among the top five coming out of
the region. The Reserve
can be outstanding. It is in the typical Margaret River style,
yet edged with astringency and needing time. Here is deeply coloured
cabernet with a big, rustic, smoky, slightly gamey bouquet draped
in dark berry fruits.